Bounty of Eggplant
from MALIBU MONTHLY MAGAZINE – August 2004 Issue

August is the month when Summer puts on her dance shoes and spreads out her harvest bounty of Mediterranean delights like a flamenco skirt.  Witness the swirl of colors and textures: the glossy red of sliced tomatoes, the smoky purple of grilled eggplant, the nubby texture of goat’s cheese rolled in zahtar* or the blue-veined appeal of ripe gorgonzola.

Here on this beautiful coast, our affinity with all things Mediterranean is not coincidental.  It begins with the landscape, the coastal range of hills, the stunning blue of the Pacific ocean – our very own Côte d’Azur – and it extends to our fascination with and our love of all things Mediterranean: the architecture, the lifestyle, the food.

Like any other tradition, a region’s food traditions recount its heritage.  Take, for example, the eggplant, one of the uncontested royals of Mediterranean cuisines.  Eggplant’s illustrious history begins in the ancient lands of Asia, where early human tribes may have grown wild varieties long before the more “scientific” cultivation of food crops.   References to eggplant can be found in ancient writings of India and China, where its earliest mention dates to the fifth century.  In the Middle Ages eggplant was brought to the west and introduced to the peoples of the Mediterranean rim by Arab traders – initially to the areas of Spain and North Africa – and arrived in Italy in the 1200s.  It was not until around the 17th century that eggplant became known in provençal cuisine, where its French name aubergine (from the Arabic al-badinjan) is a memento to its globetrotting past.  Finally, eggplant arrived in the New World with another group of seafarers, this time the Spaniards, who preferred traveling with the familiarity of their own foods.

Technically a fruit, eggplant belongs to the nightshade family (Solanaceae), some members of which have dubious reputations (e.g., the poisonous Jimson Weed).  Eggplant varieties range from the large purple “globe” found most commonly in our supermarkets, to the small, white, egg-shaped fruit  – which gives eggplant its English name – with a wide range of specimens in between.  For grilling, I prefer the long, slender varieties (Italian, Chinese and Japanese), although the larger ones (with a little extra preparation) can certainly be grilled as well.  I find the lighter colored eggplants to be “meatier”, i.e. not as watery as the large purple ones, and thus well suited for delicacies like Sicilian caponata or Greek moussaka.

Unfortunately, many cooks shy away from the versatile eggplant which, like any other star, demands our unflinching attention before gracing us with its best performance.  Most varieties tend toward a bitter flavor, unless drained of much of their liquid.  In order to accomplish this, large eggplants can be sliced into ½-inch slabs (lengthwise – fewer slices needed), sprinkled with Kosher or sea salt (easy does it) and placed in a colander for 30-45 minutes.  The long slender varieties can be cut in half lengthwise and scored a couple of times with a sharp knife and then lightly sprinkled with salt.  The salt acts to draw the bitter liquid out of the slices.  It is very important to thoroughly wipe the sliced eggplant with paper towel, otherwise your masterpiece will be way too salty.  The slices can then be grilled, sautéed or added to a stir-fry.

A caveat about sautéing and frying . . . eggplant’s porous texture allows it to soak up massive amounts of oil.  I personally prefer to coat the prepared slices of eggplant with olive oil (extra virgin!) and place them on a baking sheet in a hot oven (400 degrees), turning them once or twice until evenly browned.  That way, you can control the amount of oil absorbed by the eggplant.  Grilled eggplant is absolutely fabulous and worth the extra trouble, making it a classy addition to a platter of grilled summer vegetables.  Arrange the grilled vegetables attractively on a shallow platter, drizzle them with a good balsamic vinegar and extra virgin olive oil, and top the platter with sprigs of fresh marjoram, rosemary and a handful of basil leaves (green or purple).

Grilled eggplant also imparts a rich, satisfying flavor to moussaka or a grilled sandwich, such as the provençal “pan bagnat”.  For a tasty sandwich treat, try coating the eggplant slices with a garlic-infused oil before baking or grilling them.  One of my all-time favorite eggplant dishes is the Middle Eastern baba ganouj (recipe below).  An impressive variety of eggplant is currently available at Malibu’s beloved Farmers Market (Sundays from 10:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m., April through October, 23555 Civic Center Way in front of the Malibu courthouse).  Mahommed, owner of Eden Tropic (which also carries several “exotic” fruits and vegetables), offers organically grown (not certified) varieties, including the ubiquitous globe (large, purple), a miniature globe (very dark, almost black), and several long, slender eggplants: Italian (purple), Indian (violet), and Egyptian (white).  Another splendid array of eggplant varieties can be found at the stand of Meemoua Farms from Fresno: Italian, Chinese (violet), Japanese, and the very dark “black beauty.”  Meemoua’s farmers also bring lots of fragrant basil: Italian, purple, and sweet Thai.

The tomato – also a member of the nightshade family and staple of all Mediterranean cuisines – is another well-traveled fruit (botanically a berry) which was native to the Americas.  It was brought to southern Europe in the early 1700s with Spanish traders and managed to retain its original name, which comes from the Nahuatl language of South America. 

Tomatoes form the basis of many sauces and casseroles, where their acidity helps to bring out the flavors of other ingredients.  However, when they are at their luscious best – as they are at the moment – I prefer to eat them raw.  Local markets are brimming with a bounty of varieties, sizes and shapes of heirloom tomatoes, in shades of red, yellow and green – it’s a feast for the eyes!  For a colorful caprese, slice tomatoes into ½ inch slices (use different colors, but similar sizes), arrange them on a platter with slices of fresh mozzarella, a drizzle of fine extra virgin olive oil, a chiffonnade of basil and a few tangy olives.  Pasta lovers will be delighted with summery pasta fresca: your favorite pasta cooked al dente, a couple of juicy heirloom tomatoes cut into ½ inch cubes, a tub of bocconcini or other fresh mozzarella, sliced into ½ inch cubes, a clove or two of freshly pressed garlic, a generous splash of extra virgin olive oil, some fresh basil, shavings of parmigiano reggiano (buy in one piece and cut thinly with a sharp knife), and some olives.  Ecco – buon appetito!

Locally available heirloom tomatoes are currently at their best, offered by vendors at Malibu’s Farmers Market in several varieties: Surabian Farms of Reedley, California has unsprayed heirlooms; Elsers Country Farm of Yucaipa carries organic heirlooms (not certified); Gamai Farms’ heirlooms are big and gorgeous and not organic.  I also found beautiful displays of heirloom tomatoes at How’s Trancas Market, 30745 Pacific Coast Highway (locally grown organic), and PC Greens Market, 22601 Pacific Coast Highway (organic).  PC Greens also carries an impressive selection of goat’s cheeses, which make a wonderful complement to any Mediterranean spread.

So, be adventurous and try something new: you cannot go wrong when you begin with fabulous, fresh, high quality ingredients.  Here is one of my favorite relishes to add to a summer buffet – enjoy!

***
*Zahtar is a Middle Eastern spice blend of fresh thyme, toasted sesame, salt and sumac.

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