A Spread of Festive Cheeses
from MALIBU MONTHLY MAGAZINE – December/January 2005 Issue

The French have a saying that cheese complements a good meal and supplements a bad one. One of the many pleasures of traveling abroad is savoring the myriad varieties of regional cheeses. Cheese is produced in countries all over Europe and the Americas, with France leading as the most prolific producer. Thanks to an ever growing import trade, cheeses from all over the world are available in local markets and specialty shops.

The ancient art of cheese making began over 12,000 years ago in Europe and the Middle East, where the now extinct aurochs — the wild ancestor of our cow — was domesticated for its milk, meat and hide.  At that time, milk was stored in leather pouches, where natural fermentation often caused the formation of soft cheeses which had a longer shelf life than milk.  Like other preservation methods, fermentation retards the growth of bacteria that spoil food and allows for the long-term storage of food products in the absence of refrigeration.

Cheese production begins with the separation of liquid (whey) and solids (curds) with the help of naturally occurring microorganisms. Sour curds are formed in the presence of lactic acid bacteria, producing yogurt and cottage cheese. Sweet curds — the first stage of most cheese varieties — require the addition of a plant or animal enzyme, most often the kidney enzyme rennin. Cheeses sold at this first stage as “fresh cheese”, e.g., fresh mozzarella, are typically packed in water or whey to allow the retention of moisture. Subsequent processing and aging with the help of secondary microflora and molds is what gives cheese its unique texture and aroma.

The original Swiss cheese, Emmentaler, is made from part-skim raw milk and is aged for 60 days, giving it a rich, nutty flavor. It is a great complement to fruit and nuts. The more robust Swiss cheeses are Gruyère and Appenzeller Gruyère comes from a valley by the same name and is aged 10-12 months. Stronger than Emmentaler, it is served as an appetizer or as a dessert with fruit, and it imparts a rich, creamy flavor to gratins and cheese fondues. Vacherin, from the region of Fribourg in French Switzerland, has a rich creaminess and a full nutty flavor.

Favorite Italian cheeses include Parmigiano Reggiano from the region of Parma and Reggio Emilia, an aged hard cheese best served in fine slivers with a few drops of mature balsamico. Pecorino, a firm, intensely flavored sheep’s milk cheese, can be used in place of parmesan as a topping for pizza or lasagna. Milder cheeses include Fontina from the alpine region of Aosta, and Gorgonzola Dolce, a young cheese with a sweet, creamy flavor and texture. Slices of fresh Bufala Mozzarella, from the milk of water buffalo, make an elegant appetizer with sliced ripe tomato and a drizzle of olive oil and balsamico. Feeling adventurous? Try serving aged raw milk Taleggio with its intense, earthy flavor and powerful aroma with a glass of Chianti or Barolo wine.

Like winemaking, the art of cheese-making in France began in monasteries, such as L’Abbaye de Saint Abondance which produces a rustic mountain cheese called tomme (named after a breed of cow). The character of tomme cheeses varies according to region and whether they are made with the milk of cows, goats or sheep. A cheese platter of representative French cheeses is not complete without raw milk Morbier, a semi-firm cheese with a fruity, nutty flavor and a layer of ash running through the middle, the soft white Pont L’Evêque (similar in flavor to Camembert, but with a bigger, more intense flavor), or the moist Roquefort, which is aged in limestone caves. The bright orange Mimolette with its mellow, satisfying flavor will round out a holiday spread and is popular with the little ones.

Other European cheeses include the mild Spanish sheep’s milk Manchego, the many cheeses from the British Isles, such as aged cheddars, tangy blues (like Stilton or Shropshire Blue), and the brilliantly colored Westcombe Red, to name a few.  Domestically produced specialty cheeses include the fabulously pungent Red Hawk, a wide variety of marvelous goat’s cheeses (e.g. the Crottin cheeses), the creamy Maytag Blue, and Grafton Cheddar - which is aged up to four years!

When serving cheese with wines, the rule of thumb is this: the softer, moist cheeses go best with white wines and champagnes, and the harder, more robust cheeses go best with the heartier reds. Cheeses to serve with white wine are, for example, Manchego, Boursin, Brie, Chèvre, Colby, Emmentaler, Vacherin, some of the milder blue cheeses or goat’s cheese logs (see recipe below). Cheeses to serve with reds include Danish Bleu, Roquefort, Stilton, Red Hawk, sharp cheddars or tangy feta.

Not sure where to start? Visit your favorite specialty shop and talk with the cheese buyer. Ask for a taste test. Bring your family. Then invite friends over for a tasting of wines and cheese . . . mmm . . . and be sure to invite me to join you!

***

The ancient art of cheese making began over 12,000 years ago in Europe and the Middle East.

When serving cheese with wines, the rule of thumb is this:
the softer, moist cheeses go best with white wines and champagnes, and the harder, more robust cheeses go best with the heartier reds.

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